It’s hard to come up with a greater hit for transforming skin than AHAs. Since their discovery, they’ve been the active ingredient in most effective anti-aging and hyperpigmentation products across the world. Like most facialists, I am a huge fan myself, but I know their limitations having worked with them since I literally first started beauty school. Creating a home peel suitable for daily use was quite possibly the most important part of constructing Green Chemistry, as I knew my clients needed to see results in between facials, and good AHAs allow for deeper penetration of all other ingredients to follow.

This meant that Phyto Glow needed to be a suitable PH for maximum efficacy, and we needed to be smart about what AHAs we use and what percentages. I wanted something that was brightening, first and foremost, rather than just exfoliating. This is where kojic acid, a naturally antimicrobial (bye bye acne!) acid produced by mushrooms came in handy. Not only is it more effective at targeting pigmentation at lower percentages than it’s much more sensitizing cousin glycolic acid, but it’s slower delivery to the layers of the dermis make it less itchy and “tingly” than expected for a powerful brightening acid.  

Though I love glycolic acid, and it’s small molecular structure allows for deep penetration (superb for brightening), lactic acid is more hydrating, self neutralizes, and actually brightens better as well. The main advantage of glycolic acid is it best affects the newly forming keratin cells at the base of the debris, allowing surface cells to dissipate quicker. To solve this, we added super star keratolytic agent and BHA willowbark (salicylic acid), which also self neutralizes. Though BHA ingredients are often viewed as drying acne focused ingredients, we use the entire white willow bark extract rather than simply using it’s pure extract of salicylic acid, which works superbly on acne marks without dehydrating the skin.

Delivering AHAs to the skin optimally was the reasoning for making Phyto Glow a liquid tonic, as it allows for the absolute best penetration and prep for other products following to work even deeper after AHAs have worked their exfoliating magic. When we were only available through private consultation, our AHA product was Phyto Alpha, a

My goal was to create the perfect prep for Night Light and Alpha C to reach their maximum potential, and after many, many trials, we have truly created that. To balance and compliment the AHA profile of Phyto Glow, we found the perfect plant juice with cucumber. Cucumber contains a super stable form of vitamin C and caffeic acid, which both fight to reduce inflamed and sensitive, along with with silica in it’s peel, which works to firm and lift. We also include amino acid L-Arginine which serves as the precursor for the synthesis of proteins and many other vital components to create healthy skin.

The result is the most effective AHA treatment possible for virtually every skin type, and it doesn’t hurt that it (naturally) smells like fresh oranges, chamomile, and cucumbers. My favorite thing is seeing my client’s before and after’s with Phyto Glow resembling the long-term results of actual peels, which was truly our goal. I want people to feel in control of their skin in between facials (in the right way, not the “metal extractor tool in my magnifying mirror” way, no no no), and we finally created that with Phyto Glow. Enjoy, and please share your results!

Archives